A couple of things are going through my head today.
First of all, I stumbled across a web site on container construction. He keeps a blog about his experiences in PROFESSIONALLY building with containers. In 4 pages he has managed to put the best most accurate advice I have seen to date! I highly recommend that anybody even remotely interested in building with containers read this FIRST.
http://www.runkleconsulting.com/category/shipping-container-buildings/
After reading this I am sure there are people who may think "....then why are you building with containers?". This is a valid question and one I shall attempt to answer today.
To begin with, I like containers because they are steel. I began my professional career as a machinist / metalworker. I am actually more comfortable with metal than I am with wood. I have a hard time working wood to within 1/4" tolerances. With metal, I can and regularly do work to tolerances of .001". I am more comfortable with a cutting torch and welder than I am with a saw and nail gun. As a matter of fact, the only thing I did not do myself in my "box" was the wood work and drywall.
I built the current unit I use after looking at all kinds of wood buildings. What I discovered was that the prices of the "shell" were actually a bit cheaper with the container compared to a prefab or onsite assembled wooden building. However, the container will hold up much better over time than what the wood building will. I figured that even if I abandoned the project, I would still have a storage building that is not only portable but will probably outlast me.
Another reason was durability. I wanted something that could make it through a storm without being completely destroyed. Here we get strong storms in the spring that regularly knock down (big) trees. If you have looked at any information about tornado and storm damage, you will see that most of the damage in a storm or (low strength tornado) comes from debris and not necessarily the winds. All it took for me was to see a 2x4 shot through plywood (and not even slowing down on its way through!).
I hold no illusions. My box will be damaged in a major storm. Since I neglected to reuse the steel I took out for the windows as shutters, I KNOW my windows will be "toast". On the other hand, the walls and beams WILL be bent up and most likely damaged beyond economical repair. However, the contents should for the most part be intact. As I stated in another posting, I do not have anything "permanently attached" in here. If the shell is destroyed, I can still use it as a temporary shelter until I can get another container dropped. At that point I will then salvage what I can and move the contents in to a new container.
My last reason was portability. They can be pulled on to a flatbed and moved anywhere. A foundation is recommended BUT not required. The stress points are on the corners only (unless you get wild cutting out large sections of the walls!). The only thing I STRONGLY recommend is that there is an air gap between the container and the ground. Steel (yes even "Cor-ten") and wood (even treated) do not like dark moist environments forever. There needs to be the ability for it to dry out. On my current box, I use solid cement blocks under the corners.
The above is after 2 years of "settling". I understand that this is not a good "permanent" solution, but I do not yet need a permanent solution. As a matter of fact this summer, the box will be moved and integrated with a 40' container anyway. Another option is like I did for the 40' unit
It is simply a form tube filled with quickrete. The way I did this was to level out the container and then insert the form and fill it to within 1/2" or so of the container corner under each corner. When it was cured I simply set the container down on it.
Two last words of warning. First is, do NOT use standard "cinder blocks" (the ones with holes in the middle)!!! They will break at the most inconvenient of moments! This includes using them under your jacks as you are leveling the container. I have about 5 SHATTERED blocks as proof of this.
The second point is when leveling do it with TWO jacks minimum! I was amazed at the rigidity of these things. lifting on one point even 1/8" brought 3 corners off the ground! I initially tried to use a single high-lift jack. THAT was a disaster and after the craziness was over, I am happy I still have all my fingers and toes!! Use two jacks and work either the sides or the ends TOGETHER. I have since made a fixture to use in the corners along with a long stroke hydraulic jack. I will show that in another posting.
First of all, I stumbled across a web site on container construction. He keeps a blog about his experiences in PROFESSIONALLY building with containers. In 4 pages he has managed to put the best most accurate advice I have seen to date! I highly recommend that anybody even remotely interested in building with containers read this FIRST.
http://www.runkleconsulting.com/category/shipping-container-buildings/
After reading this I am sure there are people who may think "....then why are you building with containers?". This is a valid question and one I shall attempt to answer today.
To begin with, I like containers because they are steel. I began my professional career as a machinist / metalworker. I am actually more comfortable with metal than I am with wood. I have a hard time working wood to within 1/4" tolerances. With metal, I can and regularly do work to tolerances of .001". I am more comfortable with a cutting torch and welder than I am with a saw and nail gun. As a matter of fact, the only thing I did not do myself in my "box" was the wood work and drywall.
I built the current unit I use after looking at all kinds of wood buildings. What I discovered was that the prices of the "shell" were actually a bit cheaper with the container compared to a prefab or onsite assembled wooden building. However, the container will hold up much better over time than what the wood building will. I figured that even if I abandoned the project, I would still have a storage building that is not only portable but will probably outlast me.
Another reason was durability. I wanted something that could make it through a storm without being completely destroyed. Here we get strong storms in the spring that regularly knock down (big) trees. If you have looked at any information about tornado and storm damage, you will see that most of the damage in a storm or (low strength tornado) comes from debris and not necessarily the winds. All it took for me was to see a 2x4 shot through plywood (and not even slowing down on its way through!).
I hold no illusions. My box will be damaged in a major storm. Since I neglected to reuse the steel I took out for the windows as shutters, I KNOW my windows will be "toast". On the other hand, the walls and beams WILL be bent up and most likely damaged beyond economical repair. However, the contents should for the most part be intact. As I stated in another posting, I do not have anything "permanently attached" in here. If the shell is destroyed, I can still use it as a temporary shelter until I can get another container dropped. At that point I will then salvage what I can and move the contents in to a new container.
My last reason was portability. They can be pulled on to a flatbed and moved anywhere. A foundation is recommended BUT not required. The stress points are on the corners only (unless you get wild cutting out large sections of the walls!). The only thing I STRONGLY recommend is that there is an air gap between the container and the ground. Steel (yes even "Cor-ten") and wood (even treated) do not like dark moist environments forever. There needs to be the ability for it to dry out. On my current box, I use solid cement blocks under the corners.
It is simply a form tube filled with quickrete. The way I did this was to level out the container and then insert the form and fill it to within 1/2" or so of the container corner under each corner. When it was cured I simply set the container down on it.
Two last words of warning. First is, do NOT use standard "cinder blocks" (the ones with holes in the middle)!!! They will break at the most inconvenient of moments! This includes using them under your jacks as you are leveling the container. I have about 5 SHATTERED blocks as proof of this.
The second point is when leveling do it with TWO jacks minimum! I was amazed at the rigidity of these things. lifting on one point even 1/8" brought 3 corners off the ground! I initially tried to use a single high-lift jack. THAT was a disaster and after the craziness was over, I am happy I still have all my fingers and toes!! Use two jacks and work either the sides or the ends TOGETHER. I have since made a fixture to use in the corners along with a long stroke hydraulic jack. I will show that in another posting.
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