The construction of "The Box" (the shell)

Well, originally I intended this to be an "in progress" about my first experiences with building useable space from shipping containers. Unfortunately, I was so busy with it and neglected the "play by play". Because of this, I will FINALLY open this blog with some pictures and descriptions of the "finished product".

 

Let me first note, THIS IS NO LONGER A "SHIPPING CONTAINER" AS I CANNOT SHIP ANYTHING WITH IT. I refer to this as "the box", "useable space", or "the container", for one simple reason. I refuse to do the job of the zoning or other government agencies for them. They can tell me what they think it is. After I refer to the local or state laws, I will tell them if they are right or wrong in their definition. Remember "anything you say can AND WILL be used against you in a court of law". I will only say there is no permanent fixed connection to anything, be it utilities or the ground.

 

 

This is it as originally finished. Externally there are not many changes since it was built. All I have added outside is a chimney for the stove in the right far corner. On the upper left of the roof, you can see that the heating and cooling system is a "mini-split" unit. Originally I had planned on using this as the sole source. Unfortunately winter proved me wrong. I don't know if I got the wrong unit or not, but even with stud walls and R-19 insulation everywhere but the floor, it did not work below 32. I have since added a chimney and wood stove for winter.

 

To give a little bit about the "build detail" I include the following pictures:

 

 

Here are the window cutouts framed in angle iron. I did not go for optimum but bought the closest I could that was cheap and available (meaning local scrap-yard). These were stitch welded in place.

 

The windows are flanged on the outside and fastened in with self taping screws. Inside there are wood shims and foam to seal them.

The walls are "overkill". It is a standard stud frame with the header and footer stringers attached to the container with self tapping screws. I went to great pains to find a way not to pierce the outer shell unless there was absolutely NO OTHER CHOICE. Doing it this way, the screws only went inside the box section of the container top and bottom frame. The same was done for the ceiling.

The end was framed in with the door and a window. I did this so that the main doors could be closed and locked to secure it. I will write more about this later.

Here it is before the drywall. Conduit on the electrical outlets was overkill, but with a purpose. I did it this way, first of all, because I could, and second because it allows me to use the boxes for anything I wish. At some point in the future I could even pull heavier wire and run 12 or 24 volt DC at chosen outlets.

Last up, the drywall and vapor barrier.

There were MANY lessons learned in the construction. the techniques themselves were very straight forward. It also resulted in a VERY quiet well insulated space. There are a few things that will DEFINATLY be done differently on the 40' I have for this summers project.

What I learned --

• Unless you have no other choice, do not do a 20' container! By the time you factor in the cost of the container, and the heating / cooling system, a 40' is the best way to go. The cost of materials to finish it are not that much more for a 40'. Even if you are as "cheap" as I am and don't want to spend the money to have such a "large space", you can always finish 1/2 of it. The last thing I will say about that is, I have lived with this for 2 years now. 20' is simply small no matter how you arrange the space. Spend just one good hard winter in it and you will realize, if you wish to retain your sanity, you WANT 40'!
• Do not "cap" the main doors! Eventually you will want to move something big in or out of it. As you are standing there with your "whatever it is" sticking half in and half out, you will look at how much room you originally had there and think what an idiot you were for throwing that away. Instead cut and install your access door in the side.
• Save the money for fiberglass insulation and spend it on foam spray. Even if you use the same method of 2x4 studs as I did, have it spray foam insulated. The reason for this is that if there is ANY exposed metal (and there will be the moment you need a hole for something), you will get condensation dripping.
• Use "box" or "rectangular" tubing for metal frames. Make sure that it is as wide as the corrugation is "peak to peak". It is MUCH easier to seal this up without "gobs" of silicone. And by the way, do not silicone over foam. It WILL eat away at least somewhat at the foam.

Other than that, I cannot really think of anything I will do differently on the next one. Putting all of the electric in conduit is not necessary but it does give flexibility. If anything, on the next one, I would have had an outlet box and conduit on EVERY stud. As it is I have Ethernet cables draped overhead.

One other "minor detail", for future expansion, I also put a stub of copper pipe in going up to the ceiling. On the outside is a standard outdoor faucet. Eventually I will have a water tank of some sort, and can simply use a "double female" hose adaptor (homemade) to use the garden hose to fill the tank.

If you are in a cold climate, make sure you have a backup to the mini-split if you go that route. below about 32 it becomes worthless. I would recommend propane, gas, or even a pellet stove.

Hopefully, soon I can get to the interior. One last thing I would recommend as soon as major construction is complete. Seal the floor with 2 component epoxy paint. I am not going to get into the discussion as to whether the wood treatment is toxic or not. At the very least, it simply smells bad. With epoxy, the smell is completely gone.

If you find this interesting, insightful, or simply with to have further information, feel free to ask. I would love to know that SOMEBODY sees this :-)